How to Replace Corroded Rear Back Plates on a 2006 Kia Sportage 4WD SX?

To remove the rear back plate on your 2006 Kia Sportage 4WD, start by raising and supporting the vehicle securely. Once that's done, remove the wheel and set the parking brake. You’ll need to loosen and take off the four hub nuts and screws. After releasing the parking brake, you can remove the wheel drum. Next, use a spring wrench or pliers to take off the adjuster lever spring, followed by the adjuster lever itself. Then, remove the return spring using the same tools. Turn the adjuster star wheel clockwise to relieve tension on the brake shoes, and take out the adjuster assembly. When you get to the hold-down pins, turn them until they align with the grooves in the hold-down spring clips, allowing you to remove the primary shoe and anchor spring. For the secondary brake shoe, detach it while the parking brake cable is still attached, and then remove the cable from the shoe. Don’t forget to take off the control lever C-clip and lever from the secondary brake shoe. Next, disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder, then remove the two mounting bolts to take out the wheel cylinder. After that, remove the parking brake cable bracket bolt and the parking brake cable from the backing plate. Finally, take off the four nuts from the backing plate. If you're having trouble with the axle, try applying a bit of pressure to see if it will come out. Using a rubber hammer can help here; it’s an old-school method that often works well. If you’re using a three-legged extractor and it feels like you’re pulling against rubber, that might indicate some resistance. Just be cautious and ensure you're not applying excessive force that could cause damage.

To tackle the issue with the corroded rear back plates on your Kia Sportage `2006 4WD SX`, you might want to consider applying heat to the area where the corrosion is most severe. Heat can help expand the metal and break the bond that corrosion creates. If you have access to a heat source, like a propane torch, carefully apply heat to the flange and surrounding area. Be cautious not to overheat or damage any nearby components. If you don’t have heat available, using a three-legged extractor is a good approach, but be mindful of the pressure you're applying. It sounds like the extractor is pushing the axle inward, which can compress the rubber bellows and create resistance. Instead of just pulling, try tapping the back of the flange gently with a rubber mallet to encourage it to move outward. This can help loosen any corrosion without causing damage. If you find that the axle is still not budging, you might need to alternate between applying pressure with the extractor and gently tapping the flange. This combination can help break the corrosion's grip. Just be careful not to apply too much force, as this could potentially damage the axle or the flange. Keep an eye on the rubber bellows; if they’re getting squashed too much, it might be worth stopping to reassess your approach. Sometimes, a little patience and a gentle touch can go a long way in these situations.